FAQ - Frequently-asked questions

1. Remove any excess ash from the hearth;
2. Open the primary and secondary air adjuster, fully open the flue gas adjuster, if the firebox is a prefabricated or one-piece fireplace.
3. For lighting with low emissions: prepare 3-4 logs of dry wood with a cross-section of approximately 5 x 5 cm and a length of about 20 cm to be placed on the base of the hearth; 6-8 pieces with a cross-section of approximately. 2x2 and a length of approx. 15 cm to be placed like a “tower” on top of the larger logs; lastly, the item to facilitate ignition (chips or firelighter), matches;
4. Layer the logs perpendicularly and at a certain distance from each other by placing the larger logs at the bottom and the finer ones at the top;
5. Place the firelighter in the centre of the tower at the penultimate layer of wood;
6. Light with a match;
7. Allow the fire to develop, and only when the flames have died down and formed a bed of embers, reload the appliance in the normal way and regulate the flue gas adjusters or combustion air adjusters as indicated in the appliance manual. Never use petrol, paraffin, alcohol, or other similar liquids to start the fire.

When a sufficient bed of embers has formed, proceed to load with more fuel:

• ensure that any adjusters or flue gas regulating valves, on the appliance or in the system, are open;
• open the door slowly to avoid smoke escaping into the room and if necessary arrange the embers;
• place new wood logs (preferably without any bark) on top of the embers with the greatest surface area possible in contact with the embers;
• close the door and increase the inflow of combustion air for the time required to rekindle the flame;
• If necessary, regulate any adjusters or flue gas regulating valves, on the appliance or in the system.

It is strongly recommended never to use petrol, paraffin, alcohol, or other similar liquids to rekindle the fire.

The characteristics and the quality of the wood can greatly affect the length of time between loads, the efficiency, emissions into the atmosphere and the correct operation of the appliance. Burning wood that is too damp:

• wastes most of the calories due to evaporation of the water it contains;
• compromises the good performance;
• increases fuel consumption and reduces efficiency;
• will not ensure normal operation of the appliance;
• soils the glass considerably glass;
• causes considerable encrusting of the walls of the combustion chamber and of the flue.

Suitable timbers are those in the family of strong broad-leafed trees such as beech, hornbeam, oak, robinia, ash, birch, maple, elm. Timbers that are not resinous but are strong, heavy hardwoods are preferred because they provide the hearth with sustained, persistent flames. The following may be considered as not recommendable: the family of conifers, willow, poplar, alder. They tend to be resinous and create more soot and few embers; they crackle a lot and require more frequent cleaning of the appliance and the flue. In addition they have a soft, lightweight wood that provides the hearth with a lively flame but of short duration, with a greater consumption of wood compared to equal power.

Never use damp wood, waste materials (rubbish), waste paper, plywood or chipboard, fibrous panels, packaging, painted wood or veneers with synthetic materials, plastic laminates, cardboard, milk cartons.
You must not use liquid fuels of any kind. All of these or similar materials may be hazardous or may damage the firebox and the flue and pollute the environment.

It is advisable to use well-seasoned and dry wood with less than 20% moisture.
Freshly-cut wood has a 50% lower energy power compared to dry wood.
To obtain wood that is ready to burn, it needs to be dried outdoors, and protected against precipitation, for at least 2 years after cutting.
As can be seen from the table below, the higher the moisture level the lower the calorific value.

Using unsuitable pellets may lead to some problems, such as:

• premature clogging of the brazier and flue gas extraction ducts;
• an increase in fuel consumption and a decrease in efficiency;
• the tendency to excessively soil the glass in a very short time;
• the production of unburned granules and heavy ash.

On the market, there are various types of pellets available with qualities and characteristics that change according to the processes and types of wood used.
Since the characteristics and quality of the pellets can greatly affect the length of time between top-ups, the efficiency and correct operation of the appliance, it is advisable to use quality pellets.
 

It is essential that wood is positioned and stored in ventilated spaces that are free from moisture. Outdoor sheds, garages or basements are fine as long as they are well ventilated. Considering that exposure to the sun helps with drying, it is preferable to position the wood outside, and if possible, to the south of the house. You do not need large areas, even 4 square metres may be sufficient.
It is good idea to build the pile of wood starting with the thicker and sturdier logs, proceeding upwards to a maximum height which, for practical reasons, should not be more than one and a half metres.
When the wood is outdoors, it may also be a good suggestion to cover the pile with a nylon cloth, making sure, however, that you leave the sides free so as to encourage air circulation. Lastly, if possible you should avoid putting the wood directly on the floor or ground; it is a good idea to rest the pile on a wooden pallet or perhaps some old beams to facilitate better seasoning and air circulation.

When pellets are stored inappropriately, they risk becoming damp, and moisture is in fact the main risk factor for their quality. It is essential, therefore, to choose a ventilated, dry and well-sheltered place to store them.
Pellets are normally sold in sealed plastic bags, so you can store them in your garage, or even in a closet as long as it is free from mould problems or excessive moisture. It is advisable not to place the bags of pellets directly on the ground, and if possible, use wooden pallets to create an a plinth. Another precaution would be not to place the bags directly against the wall, but always leave at least a few centimetres to allow air circulation.

The flue, or flue gas extraction system, is the system that expels the flue gases generated by combustion to the outside. It consists of three parts: the union or flue gas duct (pipe or connecting element between the stove - or fireplace - and the flue); the chimney or flue (the vertical part); the chimney pot which constitutes the final part of the flue.

Before installing a stove or fireplace it is always necessary to check on the feasibility - compatibility of the existing plant – and the presence of any bureaucratic restrictions. The installer must therefore check on the suitability of the room where the system will be installed, on the presence of other appliances already installed (even if powered by different fuels) so as to ensure that installation is permitted. It is also a good idea to check that the position of the appliance in the installation room is conducive to basic operations such as fuel loading, maintenance and ash cleaning/removal. The suitability of the flue gas extraction system, if it already exists, is essential, as is evaluating the possible need for ducting to repair or renovate the flues. As regards the products used to construct the flue gas extraction system, they will have to have the specific designation that they are compatible with the characteristics of the stove or fireplace that will be installed. It is worth remembering that the law states that when an installer has completed the installation, he/she must issue a declaration of conformity of the system complete with the user and maintenance manual of the stove or fireplace, and a photocopy or printed photograph of the chimney flue plate and plant log book.

As regards the frequency of maintenance operations for heating systems, the UNI 10683 standard indicates that: “heating system maintenance should be performed on a regular basis and in accordance with the operating and maintenance manual of your stove or fireplace, as well as in compliance with legal requirements and/or local regulations.” As regards cleaning the smoke duct and flue, all soot must be removed in accordance with the provisions of UNI 10847

Flues must be insulated because this avoids sudden drops in flue gas temperatures and helps with their expulsion. The majority of pipes in circulation today used for flues are already adequately insulated.

With wood-burning appliances, when the draft is excessive due to an oversized flue, they operate with very high, bright flames, and combustion is fast which leads to the consumption of wood loads in a short space of time. Obviously, the best way to resolve the situation is to install a compliant flue and resize it as required by instruction manual of the stove or fireplace, but this is not always possible. Fortunately there are some remedies that can solve the majority of situations:

• if the system is equipped with a flue gas adjustment, you can close it completely or partially in order to slow down the combustion
• you could also intervene on the primary and secondary air adjusters to decrease the intake of combustion air into the firebox.

As specified by UNI 10683: “collective flues are not allowed nor can you connect up extraction ducts from kitchen hoods of any kind or from any other kind of discharge from other generators into the same chimney or smoke duct”.
However, you are allowed to have a system composed of a fireplace and baking oven with a single discharge point towards the chimney flue and the manufacturer must provide the constructional characteristics for the fitting of the flue gas ducts.

It is mandatory and specified in UNI 10683 that every stove or fireplace is suitably connected to a flue gas extraction system fit to ensure adequate dispersion in the atmosphere of combustion products.

Combustion products must be discharged at roof height. It is prohibited to discharge products directly through the wall or into enclosed spaces, even with access to clear sky. The components of systems used to extract combustion products must be suitable for the specific operating conditions and in compliance with the relevant product standards. Ref. UNI 10683 standard

Yes, an external air inlet is mandatory and serves to guarantee proper operation of the stove or fireplace, and the latter must be able to use the necessary combustion air from the external air inlet.

The air inlet must:

• have a total free section with dimensions greater than or equal to those specified in the “TECHNICAL DATA” paragraph;
• be protected with a grille or other suitable protection, provided it does not reduce the specified minimum section;
• be positioned in such a way as not to be obstructed.

It is essential that the adjacent room, from which the air is drawn, is not placed into a lower pressure status compared to the external environment, due to a reverse draft caused by the presence in that room of another appliance which uses draft or a suction device.

The air flow required for the firebox can be obtained in various ways:

• via a direct air inlet to the installation room (it is advisable to place the air inlet behind the firebox so that the air can warm up before flowing into the room through the hood grid;
• with ducting through pipes direct to the installation room, increasing the recommended minimum cross section by at least 15%;
• from a room adjacent to the installation room provided that the flow can take place freely through permanent openings connected to the outside

Yes, it is possible to connect an external air inlet directly to the fireplace or stove with ducting, consisting of flexible pipes. Airtight appliances are already set for this; for the others, you only need to order the appropriate kits for connecting to an external air inlet.
With airtight wood stoves, moreover, oxygen in the installation room is not used and consumed for combustion. The air is drawn directly from the outside and there is no longer any need for traditional grilles or air vents, that cause cold air to cross the room.
Nowadays, you can connect the external air inlet directly to the stove through a small pipe: in this way, the combustion efficiency increases and the inevitable drafts are eliminated. Airtight wood stoves are suitable for any type of setting and the ideal solution in passive houses where it is not possible to create openings or traditional air inlets to the outside.

It is forbidden to draw combustion air from adjacent rooms used as a garage, storeroom for combustible materials, or used for activities involving fire risks.

Majolica claddings are truly refined elements that enhance any setting with their particular elegance and visual appeal. But it is important to take appropriate care of them and use the most suitable product to keep them at their best, such as special detergents for majolicas and other ceramic materials.
To clean claddings you usually need to do the following:

• remove any dust from the surface of the cladding using a soft, dry cloth
• pour on the undiluted detergent and extend directly over the majolica
• wait a few minutes for it to dry completely
• remove the detergent with a soft, slightly-damp cloth
• dry the cladding with a dry cloth

N.B. If you do not know what detergent to buy, you can contact your nearest Piazzetta dealer who will suggest the most suitable product.

This effect is a true characteristic of Majolicas used to clad heating bodies: the “spider web” effect visible in some points of the Majolica cladding (especially at the points where the highest temperatures are reached), is the classic effect defined as crackle. The cracks occur due to the differentiated expansion coefficient between the internal “biscuit” (substrate) and the outer enamel: with the heat developed during use, the internal biscuit expands and produces these micro fractures that produce the so-called “spider web”. It is therefore a typical characteristic of Majolica that helps to make every single cladding unique, while also embellishing its appearance.

No, you cannot repaint Majolica cladding with other colours. Painting the Majolica panels is the last step in the production process of Majolica: once the “biscuit” has been produced, namely the still-unfinished ceramic panel, the enamel is applied to its surface by means of an airbrush. The application of enamel is a very delicate operation since it is necessary to apply the same quantity of enamel over the whole visible surface of the workpiece.
There are some enamels which require a single step i.e. the application of only one enamel; others require the application of two types of enamel and in some cases there are even three applications.
Once the workpieces have been enamelled, they have to be cooked again inside special ovens, to allow the enamel to fuse together. Through high-temperature firing, the enamel uniformly clings to the Majolica panel.

Excessive moisture or a prolonged time of non-use may lead to the formation of rust on some unpainted internal parts of the product or inside the firebox.
This is a natural phenomenon that does not compromise the efficiency and durability of the product and should not be considered a defect. If it affects the internal deflectors such as the rear or side ones, in order to remove rust or any traces of oxidation, you only need to remove the items and clean them using fine sandpaper or a steel brush. After using sandpaper, it is important to use the appropriate spray paint resistant to high temperatures to protect the inner surfaces.

Scheduled maintenance operations must be carried out at least once a year and, in any case, before using the appliance again after a long period of inactivity. If you need to book an extraordinary maintenance visit, it is always preferable to contact the technicians at the end of winter or during the spring.

Scheduled maintenance must be carried out at least once a year and, in any case, before using the appliance again after a long period of inactivity.
Maintenance operations are required and necessary to ensure safety, the proper and effective operation of the appliance and its long-lasting operation.
If these operations are not carried out with the prescribed frequency, there may be malfunctions and/or physical decay and worsening performance.

The most economical method of cleaning the glass is to use the ash produced by combustion: you only need to moisten a paper towel and dip it in the ashes creating a thin layer; rub the paper on the glass until it completely removes all residues; rinse the glass and dry it with another paper towel or clean cloth.
With ammonia: fill a spray bottle with a solution of water and ammonia in equal parts. Spray the contents on the inside of the glass and leave for a few seconds, then clean with kitchen towel or a soft cloth.
With special detergents: just spray on the product and leave it for a few seconds (or a few minutes in the event of particularly stubborn build-up) and wipe with a dry cloth, taking care not to leave haloes.

This depends on the state of wear and tear; normally service centres verify the state of the seals when performing extraordinary maintenance, and replace them then, if necessary. In general terms, it is appropriate to replace the door sealing bead when it starts to deteriorate. A ruined seal does not ensure adequate sealing and leads to a greater influx of air into the combustion chamber. There are some signs that may lead you to think that a seal needs to be replaced, such as an increase in fuel consumption - wood or pellets - and a potentially irregular flame.

Different from ordinary cleaning, extraordinary maintenance of pellet and wood-burning stoves is required by the UNI 10683 standard. It must be performed by a qualified technician and it is preferable to have it done at the end of winter, when the heating system can be turned off. Extraordinary maintenance includes certain fundamental operations such as: cleaning the flue, check on the external air inlet and the combustion air duct, check on the tightness of the seals, a parameter check, the removal of any residues from the internal parts of the stove, the flue gas emission control and control of electromechanical components. After performing maintenance, the service centre will issue a control and maintenance report as required by UNI 10683.

When you find dark dust on the furniture, it is very likely that the ash vacuum cleaner bin or its vacuum cleaner is leaking: you should check the status of the filters and the seals on their components.
Pellet stoves work through depression because an electric fan draws the fumes and post combustion residues: this means that there cannot be any leaks or spills of ash during operation. If the flue gas fan were to have any problems, the stove would block instantly and the remote control would display a safety signal.

Remote control with window: open the window and press the SET and OPT buttons simultaneously (buttons 10 and 12); using the menu selection button (10) select one of the eight transmission units (0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7). When stoves are supplied from the factory, the default frequency setting is 0. Disconnect the power supply cable and within 5 seconds, press the ON/OFF button and kept it pressed for about 3-4 seconds. An audible “beep” sound signals that the frequency has been changed.
Remote control without window: press the OK and ON/OFF buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds; when the words MENU RADIO ID appear, press the down arrow and the word NUOVA (NEW) will appear. Press OK and then using the arrows, choose a new transmission unit. Disconnect the power cable for a few seconds and then reconnect it and conclude by pressing the OK button.

NB: If the problem persists when you use values between 0 and 31, try setting values above 32.

Pellet and wood appliances have distinctive features, but some of the main advantages that pellet appliances have over wood-burning ones are as follows:

• the TIMER function, which allows you to turn the appliance ON and OFF automatically on the basis of programmed times and days, by saving up to six different programs;
• continuous automatic charging of the flame: the tank will ensure that the brazier has the exact amount of pellets according to the power usage. Conversely, with wood appliances you need to open the door about once every hour to load with wood;
• the possibility of controlling the stove or fireplace via the Piazzetta mobile APP.

You can have total control from your smartphone or tablet wherever you are.

Unlike the traditional pellet stove, in the thermo pellet stove is connected to the heating system and can also produce domestic hot water. Indeed, in addition to radiating heat directly into the interior, pellet stoves in the DHW version can directly produce domestic hot water. Thermo pellet stoves can be connected to different types of plumbing/heating systems: radiators, convector heaters, underfloor heating, and can be used as an alternative to a boiler or as a supplement to the traditional plant.

As stated in the standard UNI 10683: 2012 - paragraph 6.3.2 - the installation room must not be a bedroom unless it is an airtight installation or is an appliance with a closed firebox with ducted intake of combustion air from the outside. Furthermore, it must not be placed into a lower pressure status compared to the external environment, due to a reverse draft caused by the presence in the installation room of another firebox or other appliance with a suction device (e.g. forced ventilation systems or other heating systems with the use of ventilation for air exchange).

To figure out how many kilowatts are needed to heat 100 square metres you need to calculate the minimum required thermal input. The value is expressed in Kilowatts and it is obtained by a mathematical formula that considers the cubic metres to be heated and the thermal coefficient indicating the calories (to be converted into kilowatts) needed for each cubic metre. This coefficient varies according to the heating conditions of the home and its geographic position (north, centre, south).
Taking as an example a surface area of 100 square metres with ceilings of 2.70 m, in an area that is not too cold, the volume is obtained by multiplying the surface by the height: 100 m² x 2.70 m = 270 m³
Now the cubic metres obtained are multiplied by the thermal coefficient, the value that indicates the calories needed to heat every cubic meter. This varies according to the heating conditions of the home and its geographic position. In our country, this coefficient varies between a minimum of 30 and a maximum of 40.
Following our example, lets look at an average value of 35 kcal/m². To calculate the heating demand in kilo calories (kcal), the volume must be multiplied by the heating coefficient: 270 m³ x 35 kcal/m² = 9,450 kcal. Now, in order to covert the kilocalories into kilowatts, you must divide this number by 860: 9,450/860 = 10.98 kW. With this data we know that we need a minimum of 11 Kilowatt to heat the proposed 100 sq.m. We should remind you that it would be wise to ask a qualified thermo-technician to do these calculations for you after a careful inspection of your home.

Of course. Pellet stoves can be installed in any type of home. The important thing is to comply with the instructions in the installation, user and maintenance manual regarding system characteristics: it is essential to ensure an external air inlet of an appropriate size and an appropriate flue gas extraction system. As indicated in the UNI 10683 standard: collective flues are not allowed nor can you connect up extraction ducts from kitchen hoods of any kind or from any other kind of discharge from other generators into the same chimney or smoke duct.
However, you are allowed to have a system composed of a fireplace and baking oven with a single discharge point towards the chimney flue and the manufacturer must provide the constructional characteristics for the fitting of the flue gas ducts.

Pellet appliances have a standard timer that allows you to turn your stove or fireplace on and off automatically according to pre-set times and days. This feature allows you to save up to a maximum of six programs, and one single operating cycle per program.
Operating cycle means a period between a start time and a stop time during which the stove or fireplace is made to operate. You may choose which days to adopt a chosen program.

The plant log book, in force since 15 October 2015, is mandatory and is used to record all air conditioning and heating systems, stoves, boilers, air conditioners and heat pumps. Compared to the provisions in Italian Presidential Decree no. 74/13, it specifies that, in addition to the recording of all the heating and air conditioning systems, a complete diagnosis needs to be conducted to check on their safety and health status.
It must be prepared and filled in when there is the installation of a new heating plant or during the first control and maintenance intervention performed by qualified personnel. The log book must be filled in by the plant manager who is normally the owner of the house and they should independently complete their plant log book. To make things easier you can ask the maintenance operator to do it on his/her next inspection or maintenance visit for the heat generator; he/she will be able to fill it in for you.
Maintenance intervals for efficiency are at the discretion of the individual Regions, and may vary from two to four years. The log book is single - i.e. it is not for one product or heat generator but the whole household - and includes several sheets that must be duly filled in according to the type of plant.